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UKZN professor appointed to lead global fight against harmful skin-lightening products

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By Thapelo Molefe 

A South African dermatologist has been appointed to lead a new global campaign aimed at tackling the growing health risks linked to skin-lightening practices, as the International League of Dermatological Societies (ILDS) warns that the use of unregulated bleaching products has become a major public health concern.

The University of KwaZulu-Natal’s (UKZN) Head of Dermatology, Professor Ncoza Dlova, has been appointed chair of the ILDS’ newly established Strategic Working Group on Skin Bleaching. 

The group brings together international dermatology experts to combat the widespread use of harmful skin-lightening products and promote safer, evidence-based skincare.

Dlova’s appointment places South Africa at the forefront of an international effort to address a practice that affects millions of people across Africa, Asia, the Middle East, the Caribbean and diaspora communities.

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According to the ILDS, skin bleaching has become increasingly common in many parts of the world, driven by social and cultural pressures that favour lighter skin tones. The organisation says the practice is no longer limited to women, with growing use among men, adolescents and, in some cases, young children.

Research cited by the ILDS estimates that about 75% of women in Nigeria regularly use skin-lightening products, while the figure stands at 50% in Senegal. In North India, around 60% of study participants reported using such products.

The ILDS warns that many skin-bleaching products are poorly regulated and sold without medical supervision. Some contain harmful ingredients or steroids that can cause permanent skin damage, complications from steroid misuse, exposure to toxic substances and may increase the risk of serious conditions, including skin cancer.

Dlova said skin lightening had become a significant but often overlooked global health issue.

“The practice of skin lightening is increasing rapidly around the world to the extent that it’s now a serious but unrecognised public health burden,” she said.

She said the working group would work with communities to raise awareness about skin health and challenge harmful beauty standards.

“Our Working Group brings a multidisciplinary approach to this complex and challenging problem and will deliver structured, evidence-based action and advocacy.”

Dlova said the campaign also recognised that many people seek treatment for hyperpigmentation disorders and should have access to safe, evidence-based care.

“We recognise that hyperpigmentation disorders are a significant concern for many individuals with darker skin tones and can impact their quality of life and self-confidence. Our campaign advocates for safe, evidence-based treatments and informed choices, while raising awareness of the dangers of unregulated and harmful skin bleaching products,” she said.

As part of its work, the group will launch a global awareness campaign called The ILDS Movement for Safe Skin – Challenging Harmful Skin Lightening Practices. The campaign aims to educate consumers about the health risks of skin bleaching while encouraging people to value healthy skin in every shade.

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ILDS President Professor Henry Lim said the working group was part of the organisation’s long-term effort to change perceptions of healthy skin.

“The establishment of the ILDS Strategic Working Group on Skin Bleaching is the next step in our long-term campaign to drive meaningful change in perceptions of what healthy skin looks like and to ensure that everyone values the skin they live in,” Lim said.

The ILDS represents more than 200,000 dermatologists and skin health professionals through 240 member organisations in 113 countries. It also has official relations status with the World Health Organization and advocates for the inclusion of skin health in global health policy.

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